Sunday, June 29, 2008

Design Major: Milan Spring 09 Burberry Prorsum

-Christopher Bailey has surpassed Kris Van Assche as my favorite designer. I don't need the repeat the praise that has followed Bailey ever since he took over, and single-handedly revived, Burberry Prorsum. I read an interview with Bailey (in GQ) a while back, and something he said really revealed to me how genius he is. He said that Prorsum has an essential task of balancing classic and avant garde, and that the collection lines need keep the ubiquitous handbags and scarves in check. Balancing the ultra-commercial and the elegant collection is something more labels should take note of.
-Anyway, unsurprisingly the Burberry show in Milan was on point. Photos and analysis of my favorite looks from the show after the jump.

Photo:Christopher Bailey by Marcio Madeira

-I love the olive for spring. Spring doesn't have to be about bright color, but in most cases, it does have to be about some color. Go against the grain with an olive green and you'll definitely stand out. There was a lot of talk about the bare chest (beneath the cardigan) in a lot of the Burberry looks. I don't think this is a trend that we'll see in the streets, but it's more about spring and how we've got to find creatively stylish ways to manage the varying temperatures.

-I wasn't digging the hats in this show, or really any of the hats that seemed to be in almost every show, but thats just me. What I like about this is just the combination of classics with a narrower fit. The trench, the cardi, and the pants. Neutral colors are sparked by the classic Burb check lining.

-Same thing here, classics assembled in a fresh way. I also like the sheen of the pants, which I think most people don't associate with spring. All these looks aren't doing insane bright colors but they aren't boring, textures and subtle color variations set them off.

-This look, and a few others from the show, seemed a bit feminine for my tastes. But that bit of a tendency to cause an uneasiness is an effective tactic; I'm drawn to doing something different. The very subtle play of soft purples and gray is a hugely powerful look.

All photos by Marcio Madeira via

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