Dress Code: D.S. Dundee Assembled by Class Act

-British label D.S. Dundee just came to my attention via Sartorially Inclined's ENK coverage, and I found myself mystified that I hadn't discovered this brand sooner. With all this emphasis on outdoor gear in the states, I'm more drawn to Britain, where hunting and general ruggedness has been stylishly refined for generations. There's not really much else to say in addition to the looks. All of the items I selected were on sale except for the jeans. I didn't notice that the Camel Jacket picture included the same striped sweater until after I'd pulled both of them, but I added the colorful shirt for a pop of color out of the collar that would tie the sweater and jacket together. Dundee doesn't have ties on their web site, but I'm told they have a neckwear line, or I'd have obviously included those in my looks. more

School Supplies: Burberry Packable Trench

-Ever since I got a khaki trench, I've really wanted a navy one. Like any self-respecting sartorialist, I aspire to own a Burberry trench someday. At just under $700, this travel-friendly trench isn't something I'll be able to get my hands on any time soon, but it's a bit nearer than its $1200-$1600 older brothers.

-Via Selectism.

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Design Major: Burberry Prorsum Spring 2010 RTW

-The collection was a little more dreary than past spring offerings, but I read somewhere that, fittingly, the economic times were a primary influence. Either way, the collection was sharp and seemed to me to be a little more aimed at the spring evening than a weekend at the beach, which isn't a bad thing at all.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style

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Design Major: Burberry Prorsum FW/09

-So this is the new format for runway commentary, no jump, no critique of bad looks, just briefs on my favorites. Normally, Christopher Bailey designs exactly to my tastes, but this offering was a bit somber and muted for me. The show was overwhelmingly black which I think, as an overall theme, is a bit of a stylistic cop-out. Bailey's notes said that the collection referenced the famed British photographer Bill Brandt, who famously captured the dismal state of post WWII England.

-But these two looks struck me. The short tweed jacket paired with a printed (longsleeve?) tee. On the left, chunky knits thrown nonchalantly beneath the jacket, the shoulders on which are slightly more peaked in a more Italian than British manner. Click image to enlarge.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style

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Design Major: Milan Spring 09 Burberry Prorsum

-Christopher Bailey has surpassed Kris Van Assche as my favorite designer. I don't need the repeat the praise that has followed Bailey ever since he took over, and single-handedly revived, Burberry Prorsum. I read an interview with Bailey (in GQ) a while back, and something he said really revealed to me how genius he is. He said that Prorsum has an essential task of balancing classic and avant garde, and that the collection lines need keep the ubiquitous handbags and scarves in check. Balancing the ultra-commercial and the elegant collection is something more labels should take note of.
-Anyway, unsurprisingly the Burberry show in Milan was on point. Photos and analysis of my favorite looks from the show after the jump.

Photo:Christopher Bailey by Marcio Madeira



-I love the olive for spring. Spring doesn't have to be about bright color, but in most cases, it does have to be about some color. Go against the grain with an olive green and you'll definitely stand out. There was a lot of talk about the bare chest (beneath the cardigan) in a lot of the Burberry looks. I don't think this is a trend that we'll see in the streets, but it's more about spring and how we've got to find creatively stylish ways to manage the varying temperatures.

-I wasn't digging the hats in this show, or really any of the hats that seemed to be in almost every show, but thats just me. What I like about this is just the combination of classics with a narrower fit. The trench, the cardi, and the pants. Neutral colors are sparked by the classic Burb check lining.

-Same thing here, classics assembled in a fresh way. I also like the sheen of the pants, which I think most people don't associate with spring. All these looks aren't doing insane bright colors but they aren't boring, textures and subtle color variations set them off.

-This look, and a few others from the show, seemed a bit feminine for my tastes. But that bit of a tendency to cause an uneasiness is an effective tactic; I'm drawn to doing something different. The very subtle play of soft purples and gray is a hugely powerful look.


All photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style.com
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