Design Major: Iceberg Fall 2010

-Fashion week has been over for a few days but I wanted to post this one last set of looks from Iceberg. The past two Iceberg collections were two of my favorite showings of the past couple years. This particular collection didn't rank as high on my scale as the past two, but the brand is at least showing up consistently, which is more than can be said for a lot of wishwashy labels. Iceberg is a little more youthful and casual than a lot of the lines showing, but there's no reason the casual youth can't rock exquisitely cut jackets and waistcoats. There's nothing wrong with having an eye for what people are actually wearing on the street, as long as the product is well-made. As in the past shows, the cardigan usage was great here.
-Hat's don't ever really do it for me, and this show was no exception, but I dug the flower brooches. That buffalo plaid jacket is boss status. I've yet to actually see Iceberg in stores though... more

Design Major: Trussardi 1911 Fall 2010

-I don't want to be preemptive, but I think Trussardi 1911 might be my favorite Milan collection. I've been following the label since they re-launched a couple years ago, and my feelings have been mixed. The last two collections had some inspiring looks, but they were far less succinct than this offering. This is one of the most spot-on collections I've seen from anyone in a long time. The Fairisle-ish patterns in red, white and black add just enough Italian flair to the mix. After seeing this I'm really going to be on the hunt for some exquisitely tailored light-grey wool trousers (I'd look into getting these ones if I wasn't sure they were out of my price range.) This collection shows their versatility, almost like jeans, they can work with a plaid and vest in a more outdoorsy look or they can clean up in a more traditional suited look. The last image shows a look I could easily recreate with things that are already in my closet (except for the sneakers, I don't do high-top.) Anyway, I'm having trouble expressing why (the phrase that comes to me is unpretentious luxury,) but for me this collection was the definition of 'killed it'. I have a feeling some people may disagree with me, share your thoughts.

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Design Major: C.P. Company Fall 2010

-If you read my previous post, then you might find it interesting that the first collection I really liked is the one that looks the most in-line with the American trends right now. The trousers tucked into boots (which I thought were Redwings at first glance) and the toggle coats are all big right now. What I liked about the C.P. Company (a brand I'm admittedly ignorant about) collection is that they worked in some fantastic color into the heavy layers. I'm already thinking about how I could use some soft, dark purple in my normal military/outdoor influenced looks. The field jacket in the middle image is my favorite piece from the collection. Usually we see field jackets as a heavier top layer, but this one is nicely fitted almost like a shirt-jacket, definitely something I could get down with. Share your thoughts in the comments. more

Report Card: You Won't Catch Me In Vm. 1 - Toggles

-I know I'm going against the dominant thinking of this season, but I'm not down with toggles. There have been too many versions presented this year to even link to, there's a new toggle piece almost every day over on Selectism.  Here's my gripe: All of these toggle coats/sweaters/whatever have either buttons or zippers. That means that the toggle doesn't actually serve its functional purpose of keeping the garment closed and the wearer warm. So if the toggles fulfill no real function, they are merely ornamentation; ugly, oversized, feminine ornamentation. Give me buttons any day and remember that, though Kevin McCallister may be both charming and a perfect moral role model, he is no style icon.
-More "You Won't Catch Me In" volumes to come as I'm seeing very little that I actually like this season so I might as well blog about what I don't like. more

Dress Code: Harris Tweed

-I took these photos because I was going to sell my Harris Tweed on our eBay. Because I thought I was going to crop out my head on the eBay photos, my face looks retarded. But what's more retarded is the fact that I was going to sell this jacket. I always think about wearing this jacket and I try it on and I feel like it's a bit too long and a bit big in the shoulders. The recent bit of blog love given to Harris actually made me think that there might be a good eBay market for Harris. But I looked at these photos and realized how great the jacket actually fits and how I've been underutilizing this jacket for years. I bought the jacket at Value Village in 2006 for $17 and I've probably worn it less than 20 times, but I'm declaring now that I will start to build some looks around it. I tried it on with my EG bowtie and it looked pretty dope. The rediscovery of my Harris has me questioning my earlier proclamation that I was going to buy this tweed, but y'know I might still. more

School Supplies: Wolverine Lace-up Boot

-I haven't really been looking and mid-height boots and unlike most people, I haven't really liked a lot of the Redwing releases over the last year. My grandpa Frank only wears Wolverine boots and if these weren't $325 I'd try to snag them and pay homage. File these under: hopefully they'll be around in a couple months when I've got money.

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Fall Shopping List: Engineered Garments Flannel Bowtie

-I never know if it's bowtie or bow tie. Anyway, I've been looking for a grey-ish bow tie for a long time and after waking up too late to grab one from Bixby and Thom Browne a couple times on Gilt, I decided to pull the trigger on this one. The price was a little more than I'd planned on spending on a bowtie but whatever, it's my first EG purchase and it's exactly what I wanted for the cold months.

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School Supplies: Fall Shopping List

-I'm gearing up to drop quite a bit of dough on clothing this season as I finish my last year of college and try to look dapper as I head out into the dire job market, so I figured I'd share some of the things that are on my definite buys list for the fall/winter. The first item is this Company of We captain leisure jacket. This one, in herringbone grail, comes in at $260 but I got a $25 coupon just for signing up for their e-mail list. I've wanted a DB blazer for awhile and this is a super-slim, moderately priced option from a brand I've got a growing appreciation for.

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Design Major: Marc by Marc Jacobs

-I didn't post a lot of pictures from NY fashion week because, as I'm trying to get my mind right for fall and thinking about what things I need and how I want to layer them, I'm not really in the mindset to think about or be inspired by spring collections. Marc by Marc Jacobs was one of the few collections I liked this time around, probably because it seems a little more like a late summer-early fall transitional collection rather than a springtime sunshine collection. And dude, look at that cardigan, it's fucking boss and I want it.

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Home Ec: Repair Character

-As of late I'm really beginning to appreciate the detail and character that's added to a garment as you repair it; Whether you're sewing on plastic $.01 buttons in place of missing wooden ones, or patching the knee of your favorite pair of Levi's with a pocket from an old pair, the resultant individuality given to each garment is priceless. Click picture for details.

-Via our Flickr.

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Design Major: Band of Outsiders NY Spring 2010

-Band of Outsiders gets a lot of love here on Class Act so it's probably no surprise that I loved the new collection. I really love the dip-dyed shirts and tie. I've been vocal in my dislike of pea coats but I like them here thrown casually with shorts and Top-Siders. We've seen a couple of the pieces in earlier sneak peeks: The tailored sweats, and the new Band x Sperry collection (appropriately used in every look) but it's nice to see them worked in with complete looks. I also like the hint of Life Aquatic with the beanie x nautical vibe. more

Design Major: Robert Geller NY Spring 2010

-Robert Geller is the first show from NYC fashion week to catch my attention. The colors are loud, but not too loud, and there is a great sense of refined nonchalance. What are those pants in the 4th picture? pushed up sweats? Sweat-trousers? I dunno, but I want them.

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School Supplies: Hickey Fair Isle

-I've only purchased one $400+ sweater in my life and I generally don't encourage such purchases, but this new Fair Isle sweater from Hickey is seriously tempting me (or would be tempting me if I had any money). You see Fair Isle patterns in a ton of collections every fall, but the royal/white combo and slim fit give this sweater a more modern feel. Hickey continues to be one of my top-5 favorite brands.

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School Supplies: New Quiet Life

-We don't usually spend too much time pumping graphic tees, but Tim posted about camera-inspired design collective The Quiet Life way-back-when and I just saw on Club Mumble that there is a new batch of TQL shirts out. The above are some that I liked.

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School Supplies: Raw Choice

-Through research and consultation, my decision on which raw jeans to buy for fall came down to two well-known choices: The A.P.C. Petite Standard, and the Naked and Famous Skinny Guy in natural indigo revival selvedge. Both are similarly priced, but I finally pulled the trigger on the Naked and Famous. The biggest bargaining chip for me was A.P.C.'s growing ubiquity and a desire to rock something slightly less well known. I'm wearing the Skinny Guys right now and the fit is great, the 12.5oz is not too stiff and I can't wait to see how they wear in. I got mine online from Revolveclothing, who shipped my order the same day that I placed it which was great, and I once again used retailmenot.com (if you're not aware of this site, look into it) and saved 20%.

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School Supplies: Ralph Lauren Rugby High Seas Cardigan

-I was just browsing on Rugby today and I found this cardigan. A lot of people in the style blogosphere would find this piece a little too out-there for their tastes, but that's why I like it. $130 is a little more than I'd usually consider dropping on a cardigan, but I need pieces like this to remind myself that before I was engrossed in a style blogosphere that, while it provides a wealth of alternative points of view to counteract magazines and other dominant media, gets bogged down by a regurgitation of trends and uniformity of thought, I made a name by being a daring sartorialist. Pieces like this remind me that personality was always my biggest style influence.

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Arts & Crafts: Dee & Ricky?

-The media, Marc Jacobs, Scott Shumann, basically everyone, loves Dee & Ricky. And because I love nostalgia-inspired design and I really love Lego, I'm inclined to love the brothers-turned-design-team as well, but I'm not sure if I do. I love the fact that they've employed an innovative yet relatively simple idea, and a lot of the press they've received is well deserved. They struck at the perfect moment, a time when hip-hop icons like Pharrel and A3K are proliferating a sort of garish preppy swag. I really dig the cigarette brooch and the belt buckles and most of their products, even the barrets and stuff for women.

-So I had the thought awhile back, 'Maybe I'll buy one of those Dee & Ricky brooches, I wonder how much they are?' Then I looked and saw that they're all around $75 which isn't bad for designer accessories. But then I had another thought: 'I could just fucking make this shit myself.' Really, I have a shit load of legos anyway, and if I didn't I could acquire them cheaply, and then I'd just need some glue and a safety pin. So here's the question, is it more legit to own a piece from the originators, or to do it yourself exactly how you'd like it, and for less money?

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Dress Code: Company of We

-I'd never heard of Company of We until I saw them of SL the other day, but when the designers drop lines about their clothes being for guys who 'aren’t about to drop $700 for a pair of shorts,' and they make super-trim peak-lapel DB blazers in the $200 range, I'm already a fan.

-Update: WE ARE THE MARKET caught up with the guys behind Company of We and asked them a few questions about their line.

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School Supplies: Burberry Packable Trench

-Ever since I got a khaki trench, I've really wanted a navy one. Like any self-respecting sartorialist, I aspire to own a Burberry trench someday. At just under $700, this travel-friendly trench isn't something I'll be able to get my hands on any time soon, but it's a bit nearer than its $1200-$1600 older brothers.

-Via Selectism.

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Dress Code: I want a wacky fall sweater

-These sweaters from The Inoue Brothers, a design team I'd never heard of before seeing these but have since become very intrigued by, reminded me of an important concept I need to keep in mind for fall. I've never been one to make novelty or garishness a major tenet of my dress, but on the other hand, I've always hated the idea falling into a pattern of routine dress. The latter seems to happen to us more and more as we age, we adopt a uniform and perfect it (for me the fall uniform usually consists of Levi's, oxford shirt, tie, crew neck sweater). As sartorialists we must always be looking for new ways to re-work the items we already own, and in the same vein, looking to add pieces that maybe break the consistent mold we've created for ourselves. I really like the idea of a bright, almost cartoony sweater for the fall. These impeccably made sweaters could be used in a variety of ways, I'm thinking over a dark oxford/tie combo, under my trench coat.

-This is a nerdy sweater that for some reason I put in my blog folder and now since I'm talking about wacky sweaters I included it. I'm not commenting on its merit, but it did remind be that's it's never a bad thing to include a little occupational or academic humor in your attire. Occasionally.

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