Design Major: Trussardi 1911 Fall 2010

-I don't want to be preemptive, but I think Trussardi 1911 might be my favorite Milan collection. I've been following the label since they re-launched a couple years ago, and my feelings have been mixed. The last two collections had some inspiring looks, but they were far less succinct than this offering. This is one of the most spot-on collections I've seen from anyone in a long time. The Fairisle-ish patterns in red, white and black add just enough Italian flair to the mix. After seeing this I'm really going to be on the hunt for some exquisitely tailored light-grey wool trousers (I'd look into getting these ones if I wasn't sure they were out of my price range.) This collection shows their versatility, almost like jeans, they can work with a plaid and vest in a more outdoorsy look or they can clean up in a more traditional suited look. The last image shows a look I could easily recreate with things that are already in my closet (except for the sneakers, I don't do high-top.) Anyway, I'm having trouble expressing why (the phrase that comes to me is unpretentious luxury,) but for me this collection was the definition of 'killed it'. I have a feeling some people may disagree with me, share your thoughts.

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Design Major: C.P. Company Fall 2010

-If you read my previous post, then you might find it interesting that the first collection I really liked is the one that looks the most in-line with the American trends right now. The trousers tucked into boots (which I thought were Redwings at first glance) and the toggle coats are all big right now. What I liked about the C.P. Company (a brand I'm admittedly ignorant about) collection is that they worked in some fantastic color into the heavy layers. I'm already thinking about how I could use some soft, dark purple in my normal military/outdoor influenced looks. The field jacket in the middle image is my favorite piece from the collection. Usually we see field jackets as a heavier top layer, but this one is nicely fitted almost like a shirt-jacket, definitely something I could get down with. Share your thoughts in the comments. more

Dress Code: A Class Act/E5S Fashion Week Primer

-I read a discussion on another blog awhile back about style bloggers using fashion week photos to pad their content. Critiquing runway collections is something I've been doing, in private for years, and on this blog for almost two years. I don't do it to pad my content, obviously I'm not going to attract readers by posting images they can see over at GQ. So the content is the words and the ideas that I provide. Our readership has consistently grown over the past two years, but it has grown significantly in recent months thanks to the help of a growing community of interconnected style bloggers. Many of the people who regularly read Class Act now probably weren't reading the last time I posted fashion week images, so for our readers I felt I'd just preface my posting: I don't pretend to be any sort of fashion expert, I just find looks in shows that appeal to me for one reason or another and I try to articulate why they appeal to me. American sartorialists have, as of late, fallen out of love with the big houses, and European fashion in general. Most of you are well aware of the trend toward Americana, Japanese interpretations of Americana, and the general growing emphasis on quality, sourcing and workmanship. While I have an appreciation for these things, returning readers know that I've been reluctant to join full-on in the 'workwear etc.'  fervor. As someone who grew up reading GQ aspiring to wear Gucci suits (not Woolrich Woolen Mills hunting jackets or Filson mackinaws) fashion shows are still exciting for me. I'm always interested in how I might creatively prepare for the coming season.
-So that said, I will continue for as long as this blog exists to comment on fashion week collections. I only post looks that I like, I'm never really looking to critique things I don't like: My job is to find what appeals to me, not second-guess what appeals to the particular designer. Doing this is mainly for me. It's to try to find inspiration in new collections, not just about which new things I'd like to buy, but about how I could use the things I already own and love in a new way. With so much emphasis on history in American style right now, it's interesting that people are turning their backs on the Italian and British fashion houses that are steeped in so much seminal menswear history. Referencing and recreating history is always important in fashion, but we also need the visionaries to imagine how style might resonate in the future — which is an idea that I think is lamentably absent in the current American scene. more