Design Major: MJ x LV x SS

-I'd heard about Marc Jacob's latest project as LV creative director awhile back. But this interview in which he explains to inspiration behind the Graffiti collection, which heavily references the late American designer Stephen Sprouse, really made me take notice. I love the idea of adding color over an iconic print. For more info check out the interactive accompanying web site welovesprouse.com. more

Business Major: Blacktooth x Urban Outfitters

-Our good friend Carey Haider, the artist/designer behind the Portland based Blacktooth, announced this week that this original Blacktooth shirt will be sold exclusively through Urban Outfitters. The shirt is a screen made from a photo taken by Haider of Portugal, The Man and features the caption Make Art Not War Portland, OR 35mm. The shirt is available at all UO stores and online.
-I asked to Haider to elaborate on what a partnership like this means to his business, and DIY clothiers everywhere:

"Urban Outfitters has been picking up a lot of underground brands as of lately. Who would of ever have thought you could go from a shop in the back of your car trunk to a national chain store. I think a lot of it has to do with where the world is right now with war and everything else. The underground scenes have seen a large revival in arts and crafts, and like everything that starts out cool; it always spreads to the suburbs and before you know it they are selling Beatles shirts at Target. Small brands are starting to sell due to people want to support the underdog and want something original. This is great for all of us little guys. Instead of slaving away at a dead end job we can now afford barbecue sauce and cheese for our burgers and better yet we get to make art all day for a living. It doesn't get any better then that. A big thumbs up to Urban for supporting the small guys when they could easily pass us up."

-A lot of hardcore hipsters like to dis on Urban, and I myself have commented on the preponderance of cheaply made goods they carry. But over the last decade the store has continually increased the quality and diversity of brands they offer. Now, with semi-exclusive/semi-high-end brands like Modern Amusement, Diesel and Fred Perry, as well as with artists collaborations like that with Blacktooth, Urban has become an important stepping stone for those looking to get away from mall shopping and move toward boutique shopping. Props all around.
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School Supplies: New Blacktooth

-Just a quick post here to show some of the new pieces from Carey Haider's ever evolving Blacktooth line. These were just a couple of my favorites from the latest release. The 'modern artillery' shirt takes me back to when we first heard about Blacktooth in 05' and every shirt was printed machine guns. Glad they've moved on, but still kept their roots in mind. Check out the new stuff at Blacktooth.org more

Design Major: Wunderkind

- Wunderkind's new spring line has just made it way to the top of my "coveted" list. It has some beautiful patterns, just the right amount of color, and from the looks of it, amazing fits. Wolfgang Joop (Wunderkind mastermind) plays masterfully with the line between masculine and feminine pieces and is sexy without being revealing. Next time I run into a handsome librarian, I hope I'm wearing this. (let's all ignore the bucket hats, aside from transition lenses, they are my biggest pet peeve.) more

Dress Code: A Common Goal

-I mentioned that we'd like to stray from streetwear/sneaker coverage a bit, and the announcement of the Common Projects Fall/Winter collection is a good opportunity to talk about something I've had in mind for awhile.
-I've known for a couple years now that it's about time I purchased a pair of adult shoes (i.e. expensive, sans a logo.) And I've been debating about what kind/how much to spend. I first heard about common projects a few years ago in GQ. Common Projects is a brand I could justify spending the money on (they average around $300) rather than opting for some Gucci of LV loafers. They produce both understated sneakers and a variety of other, more formal styles, and every pair is marked with a serial number denoting it's very limited production. The design team really understands the young male's battle of navigating youth and maturity via aesthetics. More photos and comments after the jump.


-Desert boots were everywhere this year but I like the take of doing them in a waxed black as opposed to the usual khaki.




-I want these (above)

-These are some Kurt Caywood boots.

-I gots deez photos from h(y)r collective
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Dress Code: (Boy)'s Girl

-NYT style blog The Moment had a blurb about Michelle Williams, Heath Ledger's babymama who is now apparently dating Spike Jonze, being featured for Band of Outsiders female line Boy.
-I picked this up because Band of Outsiders has long been one of my favorite labels, mainly for their ability (much like their clothes) to be ubiquitous (in certain circles) while remaining subtle and under the radar. This is the first I've heard of their female line, but I can only expect it will exquisitely deliver the muted rock-meets-prep aesthetics of the proprietary line.
-Also, I've got to assume that Michelle Williams is the shit if she landed Heath and Spike. more

Design Major: JW x Levi's

-We saw the gingham lined jeans in Junya Watanabe's Paris show recently, now we see the commercial application. JW has teamed with Levi's to do create this model. I love when Levi's does designer collaborations because I generally only where Levi's and avoid dropping $300 on designer jeans. I hope they put these out as a 514.
-I'm guessing you can get the higher priced version from JW's own line at his new Hong Kong store. more

Design Major: Paris Spring 09 Junya Watanabe (+more!)

-I know what you're thinking, "Didn't fashion week end like 2 weeks ago?" and "Didn't your half-assed coverage end like a week ago with V&R?" The answer?--Yes! Well kind of, but we have an excuse! My interweb has been really cool lately and like um, not working. And you know, it's not like I could expect my lazy ass co-editor to pick up the slack while my shit was down. But anyway, Junya was the last show I was going to cover, and here it is, and it's good. Also, Hypebeast has some JW news today, so it's all timely and what not.
-You know the drill (don't you?), photos and analysis of our favorite looks after the jump.


-Ditch those high socks and this is a great look. Notice that the air-tie has been in almost every single show. What I really like about this show, which I maybe should have probably touched on in the intro was the overall theme: Even though JW comes from the Comme des Garçons Japanese fashion empire, the show had a real American, western travel/work feel to it.

-Short pants like we've been seeing a lot.

-I don't really have a comment on this look accept that seersucker is and always will be a spring classic. What's really sick though is the heavy luggage, I'd love to see people rocking huge, unpractical square baggage.

-More takes on the rolled pants and confluence of modern elegance and classic blue collar.

-I really like that there are good jeans here. The runways shows don't usually have a lot of jeans, but JW knows that that's what people wear most often, even with their jackets now days. The recurring plaids keep changing in this show, really highlighting the versatility of the pattern as a either a focus or an accent.

-I've mentioned a few times how adding a synthetic piece to a look can really add to the effect of nonchalance.

-This one is cool because it's a bit of a take on 70s with the big collar, but the pant has a short break and a narrow cut to keep it modern.

-The plaid under the cuff of the jean is a great detail, I think we'll see various takes on that idea soon.

-This show has made me want to break out the vintage plaid jacket that I've never worn.

-Again the plaid lining of the jeans, great detail.

Overall, this was one of my favorite shows. It was maybe the most accessible of all the shows to a casual American dresser. A fitting end to our coverage. Word.
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Design Major: Paris Spring 09 Viktor and Rolf

-I seem to be a minority in my appreciation for the Viktor and Rolf show. Every review I've read and every person I've talked to about it seems to detest the collection. I don't really know why but I liked quite a few pieces from this show. For a designing duo equally known for their work as installation artists as for their clothes, I think you've got to look at V&R through a different sort of lens than you would more conventional labels. The risks they take may be hated by many, but at least their not expected.
-As before, photos and analysis of our favorite looks after the jump.


-If you can't see the detail, this print is supposed to be some sort of bamboo motif. The whoel show was supposed to have a 50s vacation kind of feel. I don't necessarily love the print, but I love the idea of a printed or pattered trench, because their almost exclusively monotone.

-I like that the suit jacket here is replaced by a more field-jacket type, it makes the whole feel much younger. Really like the pin on the tie, great accessory.

-Forget the lei here and I really like the look. Patterned embroidery was big last year but I really like the martini print. I've got a martini printed tie from J.Crew that I love. Having a cohesive print on the pants and the shirt seems a little out there but it gives an almost suit-like feel, being that theres a share element throughout.

-Again, the lei is kind of ridiculous but I am really starting to dig that print. It would be much less effective, however, if the cut of the suit wren;t perfect.

-I've always loved designer takes on letterman's jackets. It's such a classic Americana form. I saw Pharrel in a custom P letterman one time and it blew my mind. I bought a vintage one in the same colorway as the Pharrel at Ray's Ragtime and it's one of my favorite jackets. Needless to say, I dig this one, especially the glasses patch.

-I would love this without the jacket. It looks a little bro, but just that glasses sweatshirt and the martini pants would be a fresh combo.

-I really love the combo here. The ultra-sheen of the pants and the tech jacket over a pretty bland top and a bit of tie peaking out. I think I mentioned in an earlier post about mixing synthetic fabrics (like the jacket) and more elegant pieces.

All photos by Peter Stiger via men.style.com
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Design Major: Paris Spring 09 Paul Smith

-Paul Smith was another one of the shows that ranked somewhere in the middle for me. Overall it left no major impression on me, but there are a few standout looks and a few tactics I could see myself working in this spring. The tell-tale Sir Paul stripes were omnipresent as expected, but an undertone of heroin rock kept the collection fresh.
-You know the drill, photos and analysis of our favorite looks after the jump.


-This look seems to fit with the 80s renaissance thats happening lately (for better or worse). Or maybe I'm just in that mode because I just watched American Psycho. Either way it's spring.

-This look is a little more my taste. I love the tie tuck, I think it is hands down one of the most under utilized tactics. Be mindful though, it only works with a wider tie, and one with sheen. So try it when you're not rocking the hipster ultra skinny neckwear.

-This is pretty ridiculous, but I included it just because, it's ridiculous. I would rock the pants.

-I really like the hint of casual nonchalance with the rolled up suit pant and colored socks. This is just a great three piece, I'd probably lose the jacket. This is another example of a look you might be able to achieve for a fraction of the price if you went with a brand like Ben Sherman.

-Again the rolled pants are innovative (with a suit) and I like the denim shirt and air tie breaking up the monotony of business. Also, there has been a lot of unique belt action this spring, I don't yet know how I feel about it. You'll see more what I mean when we do Etro.

-I've never seen a double-breasted cardi, that's pretty fresh.

-Of course I'm loving the boat shoes, Sperry makes them in this same color for about $60. I was just looking at my seersucker today thinking of ways to utilize it. The top and scarf here are a bit feminine for me but the ideal of a light scarf and a light seersucker is great for spring/summer.

-Word.
All photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style.com

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Design Major: Milan Spring 09 D&G

-D&G made the kind of loud statements that Gucci did, not with bright, solid colors, but with variations of intense patterns. A lot of what I could say about the D&G show is reminiscent of my last post about the Gucci collection. If you're following our coverage, you should see a clear distinction between the rain crafted pieces from a collection like Burberry's, and the looks presented by Gucci and D&G. Drawing from nautical inspirations, my favorite timeless theme, D&G used navy and white stripes to create volume and texture, maintaining a quintessentially Italian flair. As before, photos and analysis of our favorite looks after the jump.


-Intricately patterned trousers have been in quite a few of the recent shows, I'll have to search for some affordable ones someplace. It's good to see flip-flops getting some love from high fashion.

-Again, I love nautical as a theme. The pattern on this shirt seems a little corny, but the pairing with solids keeps it in check.

-Again, the pants are great. This show really wasn't about tons of innovation with shape or function; It's cable V-necks and trousers and Tuxes, but the patterns and proportions are nuts.

-A good deal of the show, more than is proportionally represented here, was more formal.

-Striped pants play well in a sort of dull vs. the sheen of the jacket. I almost always support bow tie usage.

-Playing the nautical theme on an elegant standard.

-Again we see the pairing of an intricate, busy pattern with a solid. Great dressers understand balance.

All photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style.com

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