Design Major: Salvatore Ferragamo FW/09

-I don't usually think much about Ferragamo outside of footwear, but this was one of the most consistent shows of the week. Where other labels evoked the dismal economic state in their pieces, Ferragamo let the countenance of the models and the confidence of their gaits send the message; style is exists independent of economy. A sentiment we should all embrace, what better way to show that you are not fazed than to be imppecably fitted. Be sure to click the image for a larger view.
-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style more

Design Major: D&G FW/09

-The last show of the week was arguably the most daring. Referencing Oscar Wilde and the American West is an odd combo that failed to pay off overall. I liked a few things though, like these printed trousers, an idea I've been hoping to see executed effectively for a long time. The look on the right has a few too many elements, but if you removed the jacket, the detail on the shoes and the bow tie would be just enough flair.
-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style more

Design Major: Etro FW/09

-I often say that if I were a businessman, Etro would be my wardrobe staple, a flashy but classy allusion to my Italian heritage and my Dandyist inclinations. But this year, like every other label, Etro is referencing the bleak world economy in their creations. Out of the blacs and deep merlots, I grabbed these two looks as examples of the few things I enjoyed from the collection. I especially like the heavy knit gloves, a bit of an allusion to grandma.
-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style more

Design Major: Bottega Veneta FW/09

-BV has been one of my favorite houses for a couple years now. Constructing an entire within one tonal range is a daunting task for the everyday sartorialist, but these looks show us that with variation of texture and proportion, it can be accomplished effectively.
-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style more

Design Major: Trussardi 1911 FW/09

-The reviews for the Trussardi show haven't been that good, and I'd have to concur with most of them, but I did like these two looks. The two panel pants create a visually interesting proportion. The neckerchief is great tie-in to both old western and modern urban styles. Also, I'm always down for rolled pants and no socks, even in the winter.
-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style more

Design Major: Alexander McQueen FW/09

-I've never been a huge fan of McQueen, not even Steve (I recently got around to watching the even-worse-than-the-remake orignal Thomas Crown Affair,) and this collection didn't sway my opinion to much. However, these two looks appealed to me. The layering and chunky knits hinted at a stylistic aesthetic phrase that I sometimes use to refer to my own style, hobo-chic. I am also really loving the slim-fitting wool cargo pant. This McQueen collab looks like it may be pretty cool too.
-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style more

Design Major: Dsqaured2 FW/09

-I didn't enjoy much of the Dsquared² collection (baggy distressed jeans?,) but these two looks show us what the brand does well, a convergence of formal and functional.
-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style more

Design Major: Gucci FW/09

-The shape here aren't much different than what we saw from Gucci for spring, but the intense conflicting patterns and colors are refreshingly daring notes for fall.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style

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Design Major: Iceberg FW/09

-Iceberg isn't a label that I'm too familiar with but I liked their collection a great deal. The looks I've selected here represent the movement of style-minded young men. The proportions and pieces, the lower pants and high-tech sneakers, are rooted in streetwear. Combine that with materials of a finer grade and the addition of classics like scarves and gentlemanly hats which represent the refined movement urban style. I also love the limited use of color within the spectrum of grays.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style

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Design Major: Burberry Prorsum FW/09

-So this is the new format for runway commentary, no jump, no critique of bad looks, just briefs on my favorites. Normally, Christopher Bailey designs exactly to my tastes, but this offering was a bit somber and muted for me. The show was overwhelmingly black which I think, as an overall theme, is a bit of a stylistic cop-out. Bailey's notes said that the collection referenced the famed British photographer Bill Brandt, who famously captured the dismal state of post WWII England.

-But these two looks struck me. The short tweed jacket paired with a printed (longsleeve?) tee. On the left, chunky knits thrown nonchalantly beneath the jacket, the shoulders on which are slightly more peaked in a more Italian than British manner. Click image to enlarge.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style

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Dress Code: F/W 09

-So we're a little behind on the Milan Fall/Winter 09 shows. We're all incredibly busy this quarter (you might notice that the time stamps on most of my own posts are from after midnight,) but I plan on busting out a bunch of runway commentary later tonight.

-The reviews are going to be a little more limited than our SS/09 coverage, again, because of the simple time factor. Nevertheless, I am much more a fan of cold weather collections (layering!) than springtime offerings, so I'll be sure to do my best to pick out my absolute favorite looks. I'll be pulling only one or two photos from the shows I like instead of doing jumped posts with eight or nine pictures. Just a note I thought I'd share, check back tomorrow for tons of good stuff.

-Feature image from Moschino, by Marcio Madeira, via men.style

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