Sunday, December 20, 2009

Dress Code: You Won't Catch Me In... Vm. 3: Humor

-Spending the last semester in Denmark has allowed me to get a firsthand look at the country's fine fashion and design offerings. I have been truly impressed by brands like S.N.S. Herning and stores like Wood Wood and Norse Projects, all of which I will have more on later this week. However, one of the more popular brands in Denmark has nothing to do with shoe collaborations or maritime sweaters. Instead, Humor specializes in clothing that is pretty much ridiculous in every aspect. Their collections are dominated by tacky patterns and outlandish color combinations, while their obnoxious "drop-crotch" jeans (see above) are often worn tucked into socks. I respect brands that do original things and have the ability to start such dominant trends, but I am still completely perplexed as to how this company became so popular. I can at least say that Humor got their name right, as I have spent that last four months laughing at teenagers with Euro mullets and jeans that give the illusion of a full diaper. more

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Professors: Underrated Icons Vm. 1 — Malcolm McDowell


-I quit reading A Clockwork Orange about 60 pages in. I should probably give it another shot. But I've seen the movie, and I watched a bit of the movie on cable the other day. When I clicked 'info' I learned something about which I was not previously privy: The actor who plays Alex is Malcolm McDowell. I've become a fan of McDowell in the past few years from his roles on Entourage, Heroes (I only watched 2.5 seasons, I swear) and Rob Zombie's terrific Halloween remakes.  After his performance in If..., which impressed Kubrick and won him the role in Clockwork, and his leading role in the controversial Caligula, McDowell's career descended into a series of typecast villains in b-list movies. Now, as an older man, McDowell's career is again flourishing. Hopefully others will take greater notice, as I have, of this incredibly underrated, authentic and iconic actor.
-I will be continuing the Underrated Icons series in the near future.
more

Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Winter Break: Seinfeld Postal Parka


-Taking a train ride today so I'm just dropping a little post. I recently bought a vintage L.L. Bean parka on eBay, but I spotted Newman's Postal Service parka in an episode the other day and now I'm thinking of trying to find one on eBay.
more

Monday, December 14, 2009

Peer Review: My COE Favorites Series Contribution


-Head over to Components of Enthusiasm to read my guest post for The Favorites Series. Be sure to check out the previous guest posts and check back because there are still some great ones coming.  Thanks again to Paul for asking me to be a part of this collaboration. more

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Dress Code: You Won't Catch Me With... Vm. 2 Tote Bag Hype



-Peruse the magazines/blogs and you will find a great many handsome, well-made tote bags. There are fantastic bags made from old sails, and totes made in America by companies who have been making canvas goods for 100 years. Talk most any style-savvy man and he'll tell you that in Japan and Europe, there isn't a stigma about men carrying bags. I've never cared much about the stigma attached to  particular item of dress, I'm actually inclined toward things that might be a bit effeminate just so I can argue when someone makes an ignorant comment. But as I became more intrigued about the prospect of using a bag that I must carry in my hands, and I came very close to buying the exquisitely-made tote from Makr (above, bottom-right,) I saw a girl in class with a tote packed to the brim and I had an epiphany: If I bought a bag like this, what the fuck would I put in it? Follow the rest of my train of thought after the jump.


-On any given day I may have to carry with me: A large camera, multiple lenses, a computer, an umbrella, notebooks, pens and pencils, Gatorade or water bottle, granola bars, iPod, headphones, etc. I'm just trying to list the things I might have to take with me when going somewhere, then trying to think about how a tote bag would help or hinder me.
-If you've been in college in the last 5-10 years you probably know that in the age the Web, e-mail and Powerpoint, there isn't really a lot of demand for lugging books to class. I might have to take a novel to a lit class or carry my AP Stylebook around, but I never, ever, have multiple heavy books with me. So, one novel and a notebook and a pencil, does that warrant carrying a tote? No.
-My computer, in a tote bag, would neither stay upright or lay flat in  a tote.
-My camera/lenses are too fragile to be flopping around freely in a tote.
-Basically everything I have, I don't want flopping around freely in a tote. And if I'm bringing enough things with me that the bag is packed tight and secure, what the fuck am I doing with so much shit?
-If I'm heading home to Portland/Vancouver I'm probably taking the train. I don't want my shit falling out everywhere, plus I've got a small/mid-sized duffel that will take everything. I might throw my computer in my brief case.
-The only reason I can see for carrying a tote would be going on a picnic, when I might have a thermos and a blanket and baseball mitts and maybe some small speakers. BUT! If I'm going to be all organic and go on a picnic, I'm probably riding my bike in the first place, on which I can't very well carry a tote bag. I live in the Northwest, so I ride my bike to the grocery store too. And I don't use plastic bags. Backpack.
-I'm just saying, I have a great appreciation for some of the great-looking, impeccably made totes bags, but I just can't see any reason why most men would choose to carry one around. Your hands will get cold! And seriously, I dunno if it's just because I live in America, but a lot of times, if that bag is too small, it looks like a purse. Is that a bad thing? I'm leaning toward yes.
-There are great backpacks out these days. I'm on a never-ending quest to find the perfect one, but I bet I'll find it before I ever realise that I'm in need of a tote/shopper/whatever.
more

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Field Trip: Winn Perry, Portland Oregon.

DSC_0279-22
-Portland has been my primary shopping destination since I got my driver's license in 2004. In addition to the standard stops such as J.Crew and Saks, the city has a handful of amazing vintage shops. But since I've been in college, and since I've been blogging, my tastes have refined a bit and I've found it harder and harder to find a quality retail experience in the 503. Winn Perry opened a little more than a year ago and I've been anxious to check it out since I first became aware of the store about six months ago. The shop has received quite a bit of press, but I wanted to grab some photos of the store's incredible stock and give an account of my impression. While wandering the store I had an interesting semi-interview chat with WP owner Jordan Sayler, who dropped a bit of knowledge about the store's future and his personal style tastes. My photos and thoughts are after the jump, because it's probably gonna be a bit run-on-y.


-Firstly, I apologize that it took me a week to get this up, I had a shitload of problems with Blogger's terrible handling of high-quality photos. If you'd like to see any of the photos in greater detail I'd implore you to command+click them to open them in a new tab. It had been awhile since I'd shot indoors, so I had to pump 400 iso on a couple shots, so, sorry for that.
-Secondly, when I enter the world beyond the jump, I tend to care less about structuring my sentences.
-Thirdly, I didn't bring a recorder with me and, as a journalism student, I can't in good conscience directly quote anything Mr. Sayler told me, but I can paraphrase with confidence.

DSC_0257-16
-I'm no expert at interior/retail design, so I'm always at a loss for words when attempting to describe a particular feel of a retail layout. But I thought the store was very inviting. Nothing seemed cluttered, which is my pet-peeve when it comes to shops. I really liked the goods that were presented within the drawers of old furniture, more on that later...

DSC_0227-5
-Before coming there were a few designers/brands I was excited about seeing pieces from. Alexander Olch was one of those designers. WP had the angora bow tie that was floating around all the blogs a few months ago along with a nice collection of other dope Olch items.

DSC_0248-12


-I've slept a bit on Billykirk, but after looking at the pieces firsthand I've got a newfound appreciation for the workmanship therein. I wanted to check out some of the Makr goods first hand, but Sayler said the store was out of Makr at the moment but expecting some of the items from the new collection.

DSC_0244-11
-I haven't really liked a lot that I've seen from Our Legacy, but this flannel might have been my favorite at the store (which included flannels from, Pendleton, Band of Outsiders, etc.)

DSC_0276-21
-Interior shots, not my strong point, but here's Grace with her (fitting) Pendleton bag. On the rack you can see the super-dope Pendleton x Opening Ceremony macs.

DSC_0267-20
-Rack of flannels. Also, I didn't get a photo, but it was my first time checking out first-hand some pieces from wings+horns, whose collections I've liked across the board.

DSC_0236-9
-Here's one of the other items I was pumped to see IRL, the Alden x Winn Perry "Little Tanks" most of us first saw over at Inventory.

DSC_0238-10
-The exquisite workmanship of some things really can't be quantified on the Internet. These boots fall into that category.

DSC_0232-8
-The button detailing on the S.N.S. Herning, I'd love to try some creative stuff with these, a la that one picture on Close Up and Private (you know what I'm talking about?)


DSC_0221-3
-I forgot the name of this model, but the hooded action might be my favorite piece from S.N.S.

DSC_0266-19
-Pendleton blankets, if only I had money.

DSC_0253-14
-Quoddy mocs, again, much better in real life. After reading about Quoddy everywhere for the past year or so, I finally got a chance to check some out. I asked Sayler about the potential for future collaboration with brands. He told me that there was nothing on the horizon with new brands, but that the Quoddy and Alden collaborations would continue. UPDATE: Check these, newest Alden x WP boots, look amazing and I love how Sayler localizes the item by getting special waterproof soles for the PNW climate.

DSC_0281-23
-Field Notes, about which I have to second something Thom Wong of The Sunday Best tweeted the other day: Would be great if I didn't already have a million Moleskines. I like the idea of putting these, and the Billykirk belts, in drawers. It makes the shopper feel kind of like they're discovering something at an antique store.

drake's ties.
-Drakes ties. As a tie aficianado, I really liked this selection, especially that houndstooth piece.

DSC_0216-2
-These Hillside selvedge chambray scarves and ties are definitely on my after Christmas list. I don't know which color of the scarf to buy, I may have to get all three.

DSC_0212-1
-A little bit of Portland love here. Winn Perry teamed up with local designer/knitter Laura Irwin for some great knit caps. The caps are a unique machine-washable blend of merino, microfiber and cashmere.

DSC_0282-24
-Sayler was wearing the S.N.S. red quarter-zip (I don't know the exact model name) shown on the racks in the first picture. I'd actually had some doubts about the fit of some S.N.S. pieces, but as you can see they fit pretty snugly.
-A couple other things that came up in our conversation:
     -If things continue on how they have been for WP (which I took to mean, things have been good) there's a possibility the store would expand and add another retail location next fall. Sayler said the new location would be similar to foreign retail locations in that it would offer a complimentary assortment of brands. Different brands, but the same overall aesthetic. He added that he's received a lot of interest from women about providing women's goods, which he has considered, but at this time it's not a high priority for WP.
     -Sayler told me he's pretty content with the assortment of brands/labels he carries. He said he doesn't want to crowd the limited space just to get new brands, he'd rather consistently deliver the high-quality brands he likes (he added that he has been described as having "old man" style.) He also said the store was updating it's Web site, which I have to say is definitely needed. I forgot to ask about the future possibility of selling the store's product online...
-Overall, the experience visiting WP was great and I'll definitely be making another trip when (if) I get some Christmas dough. I've interviewed a number of shop owners and a couple of them have been snobby and dismissive. People are understandably weary of discussing their businesses with student journalists/bloggers/people about whose credentials they have no prior knowledge, but Sayler was incredibly accommodating and answered my off-the-top-of-my-head questions with genuinely thoughtful  answers.
-On a broader note, my visit to the store was really inspiring. My career path has me heading toward men's fashion/style writing/magazine design and layout, but I've always hoped I'd somehow end up designing clothes and/or owning a store. Retail owners, and publications/Web sites, who have taken their commitment to quality to the level of co-branded collaborations are paving a new way into design. If there's an avenue for someone like myself into designing menswear that subverts the design school/draw/drape dresses route, then that's something I'm very inspired to pursue. I certainly have no idea of the finances involved in opening a shop like Winn Perry, but it definitely doesn't seem like an unrealistic goal for myself. As a style blogger, I'm obsessed with a curation of goods that represents my unique style and sets me apart from others. I'm sure my homies Paul and Lawrence would second that sentiment, and probably agree that owning a shop, being the sole buyer, and working with your favorite brands on collaborative pieces is the ultimate dream of the young sartorialist.
-Anyway, if you're in the Portland area and you like good clothes, check out Winn Perry, and pick up a copy of Inventory (which has a blurb in it about WP, but I didn't know that until I bought my copy there.)
-Be well, and follow us on Twitter.
more

Thursday, December 3, 2009

School Supplies: Moccasins



-I wore moccasins pretty religiously throughout high school, and since my last pair disintegrated I have failed to fill the void left by their absence. Thus, I have decided that it is time to snag a new pair.
-Wisconsin's Russell Moccasin Co. had some nice options (below left), and I was impressed by Yuketen's unique design (below right) and recent collaboration with Woolrich.
-Of all the moccasins I looked at, the offerings from Quoddy were far and away the most enticing. Quoddy's mocs (above) are hand-sewn in Maine and they look absolutely perfect. The price tag is a a little intimidating, but the quality is unbeatable and I will surely own a pair of these someday. I have become a firm believer in the High/Low Philosophy championed by my co-editor, but after going relatively high on some A.P.C. denim and a new coat my bank account is hurting. Luckily, I found some leather Minnetonkas for an insanely low price, and I'm hoping they hold up until I win the lottery and can cop a pair of Quoddys.
more

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

School Supplies: Red Wing for J. Crew


-While having a look around the Inventory Magazine site (formerly h(y)r), I came across these Red Wing for J. Crew leather chukka boots. They are fairly similar to the Sperry for J. Crew chukkas, which I really liked but ultimately refrained from purchasing this fall as, unlike my co-editor, I am not a fan of wearing boat shoes year round. These are a bit pricier but will fare much better in the PNW winter weather, and I may end up giving them a second look. more