Design Major: Viktor & Rolf FW/09

-I was a bit of an outlier in my liking Viktor & Rolf's spring collection. I've got a feeling I may face some opposition in my appreciation for this offering as well. But tell me what's not bad ass about a 18th century style riding jacket and sweat trousers? Nothing. 

-Via men.style

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Design Major: Paul Smith FW/09

-This may have been my favorite collection from Paris. It was just an array of subtly brilliant ideas, all perfectly assembled. The shortened tweed (second photo) was my favorite item, but I loved all the pairings of mismatched vests and jackets. Not to sure about the 90s style black jeans (last photo,) but we'll let that one slide. Be sure to click on the image to check it out full-size.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style 

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Design Major: Dior Homme FW/09

-It's a bit odd to me that I really enjoyed Kris Van Assche's collection for Dior Homme, but was put off by his own line (more on that in my upcoming 'disappointments' post.) As I've mentioned a number of times, KVA is one of my favorite designers, but his style seems to be ever drifting from the masculine nonchalance that first caught my eye a couple years ago. His Dior stuff seems to be much more in tune with what is happening on the street.

-Photos by Alessandro Lucioni via men.style

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Design Major: Maison Martin Margiela FW/09

-Not much to say here. A typically solid collection that referenced the economic climate in a less dreary manner than most others.

-Via men.style

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Design Major: Mihara Yasuhiro FW/09

-A lot of times a designer's explanation of the theme or mood of their show is so metaphorical and abstract that it's basically irrelevant to how the clothes look to the casual consumer. But Yasuhiro's allusion to a traveler along the ancient Silk Road is well mingled with his pieces. There was certainly a sense of wear and change as the show progressed, though I didn't include any photos from the final stage, the arrival, because they didn't really appeal to me (they were fittingly more Eastern in their inspiration.)

-Themes aside, this was maybe the most complete collection I've looked at this week. A mixture of well-worn layers, both heavy and light, hinted at that favorite aesthetic I mentioned earlier, hobo-chic (Kyle Hackett informed me of the probably-more-fitting/definitely-more-lyrical phrase faux-bo.) Yasuhiro is another designer I'm not too familiar with yet but the name is now definitely one that I will follow.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style

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Design Major: Jean Paul Gaultier FW/09

-Overall, I've been pretty put off by the Paris shows. There has been a lot of very unappealing dark themes. One take on dark that I did like was from JPG. If you're going to theme your collection in black, then  at least incorporate a supporting theme, as JPG did with a bit of a punk/rock element. I feel odd saying this, but I'm really liking the bondage trousers. These ones are a little less high-school goth kid and a little more I can kick some ass. 

-Photo by Alessandro Lucioni via men.style.  If you don't know by now, click to enlarge.

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Design Major: Hermès FW/09

-I don't have much to say on Hermès, probably because it will be some time before my economic situation allows me to own anything by the storied saddle house. A collection like this is the kind in which I can see some individual pieces I could maybe justify owning, but the complete looks are much too tame to appeal to me. From having looked at collections for probably the past five years, and having been writing about them for the past year, I'm starting to realize where my tastes lie. I am finding that I am much more inclined towards practicality and classic American styling as opposed to European subtlety and luxury. 

-Photo by Alessandro Lucioni via men.style

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Design Major: Junya Watanabe FW/09

-Now, on to the Paris shows. I've been a bit unique in my aversion to the fashion world's recent love affair with American workwear, and the even more odd obsession with Japanese takes on Americana. Why would I buy designer trousers made to look like worn-in Carhartts when I could buy Carhartts and wear them in? That being said, if I had to pick a Japanese designer with whom I'd entrust the task of capturing classic American style, it would be Junya Watanabe. I'm beginning to like the idea of a shooting-patch jacket, though I often criticize impractical fashion. The one thing is show here that I am liking a great deal (especially since seeing/buying this) is the idea of the hybrid blazer/suit jacket as outerwear.

-Photos by Marcio Madeira via men.style

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